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Author Topic: How to internally lower your forks.  (Read 2709 times)
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Coryonbusa
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« on: December 20, 2008, 04:57:47 PM »

This is step by step instructions on how to lower inverted forks.

You'll need:

30mm socket
10mm Allen socket. 3/8 drive
3/8 drive extention
Impact Gun
2 Pipe wrenches
2 sleeves: 7/8" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. (for busa) or 3/4" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. (for gsxr) (the length of the sleeves will determine the amount lowered)
Hack saw (or something to cut the factory sleeves)

We are starting with a fork that I've previously cut 2"s. We're wanting to cut it to 2.5"s. The process is the same for starting with an uncut fork.


First, turn the fork upside down and hit the 10mm Allen bolt with an impact.


Turn it right side up in a drain pan and let it drain for about 10 minutes.


Use the 30mm on the top to unscrew the assembly.


Slide the assembly out of the fork tube.


Let it drain off.


Unscrew the lower cartridge housing using the 2 pipe wrenches.


Drain it out.


Next, compress the spring. This is a crude spring compressor I've built. Works great though!



Now, with the spring compressed, put the 17mm wrench on the nut under the top hat and remove the top hat with the 30mm socket.


With the top hat removed, loosen the spring compressor and remove the spring. Use a pipe wrench and a 3/4 wrench to remove the valve assembly.




Now install your spacer. This is a 2.5" spacer with a washer on top.


Here's what we used for a spacer. You can get it Home Depot.  Just measure and cut.  thumbs  up


Now cut the the factory spacer. If the lowering sleeve you have made is 2", cut 2" off of the factory spacer.
If you want to add more preload to your front suspension (heavy hitters), remove less of the factory spacer.

Example:
Normal: 2" sleeve, remove 2"s from the factory spacer.
Heavy hitter: 2" sleeve, remove anywhere from 1.5" to 2" from the factory spacer. A 1.5" factory spacer, in this example, will add the most preload.


Don't remove less than 0.5" from the factory spacer than the total length of the spacer you added to lower the fork.
Spring binding may occur.

We've already taken 1.75 off of this one previously, when we lowered it 2". Now that we're lowering it another .5"s, we'll take .5" more off of this spacer.


Put the cartridge all back together in the spring compressor. Be sure to loosen the preload all of the way out on the cap and turn the rebound screw all of the way out. before you reinstall the top cap. Tighten the cap just hand tight, then tighten the 17mm nut up to the top hat.


The inner cartridge reassembled with 2.5" lowering spacer and cut factory spacer.


Reinstall the lower cartridge housing using the pipe wrenches.




Slide the cartridge back into the fork housing, turn it upside down and start the Allen bolt by hand. Then tap it with the impact gun.


Turn it right side up and add the fork oil. 16 oz. per fork.


Be sure to pump it after every 4oz. you pour in.


Once you've got 16 oz. in there, let it sit for about 10 minutes before tightening the top hat to let all of the air bubbles escape.

Reinstall the top hat and pump it until you feel the rebound working. Then you're done!






Big thanks to Pinky for coaching me through this!   thumbs  up

And a big thanks to Dave3.4 and Katie for the pics!
« Last Edit: August 14, 2009, 01:45:20 PM by Coryonbusa » Logged

'03 Busa, OG Stage 1 Ghetto w/Tony Finley's Secondary Upgrade.
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« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2008, 05:17:05 PM »

or.........put them in a box and mail them to pinky. they will come back in a few days already done. Grin

good post thumbs  up
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fatnslow
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« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2008, 09:35:06 PM »

or you can do like me and let 4in of fork tube stick through the clamps and look really gay in the process  thumbs  up
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Nem
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« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2008, 01:45:31 AM »

or.........put them in a box and mail them to pinky. they will come back in a few days already done. Grin

good post thumbs  up

+1

That's what I do
 Grin
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« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2008, 07:05:52 PM »

great work. like the info.
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« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2009, 12:19:45 PM »

what GSXR was this for ? 1000, 750 or 600? I was looking & thought I needed seals. BUT think while I got them off I may drop it 2". I was going to push forks throw the triple tree.. I remembered this post but wanted to be sure the " 3/4" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. for gsxr " is for all. Also what would you say on oil?
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Coryonbusa
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« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2009, 01:37:13 PM »

Oh, I need to update this post. Thought I did...

I'm pretty sure that was a 1000.
Just regular ol' fork oil should be good.
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Coryonbusa
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« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2009, 01:40:39 PM »

Updated...
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« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2009, 02:57:01 PM »

SWEET. Thanks for the update. What I was asking on the oil was the weight. My fault. I was going to go 10 which is factory weight & the bike is just a 1998 GSXR 600. Has RS3 can & carbs tuned to exhaust. I see you went 20. I have 3" lowering bones so 2.5 cut sounds good to me.
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David annas
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« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2009, 03:46:41 PM »

Wow that was awesome man.   No more strap for me.
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« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2009, 04:07:28 PM »

i had straps on my 00 busa for 3 years. always needed new seals. Pinky came in & cut them for me last year. think i going to do the 600 myself.
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Coryonbusa
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« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2009, 04:55:15 PM »

If it was me, I'd put some thicker oil in 600 forks cause I'm a big guy.  Wink
The thicker the oil, the more exaggerated the compression and rebound will be.
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« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2009, 04:58:32 PM »

got it. well i will just return & get other. maybe do a 15. me, I'm 5'8" , 170lbs. about average..lol. i think. I was worried about going to stiff on oil. sounds to be a better idea to so i am going to go get the other before i start  thumbs  up
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" PONY "
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« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2010, 09:11:17 PM »

Great write-up.  I spoke to a guy locally that wanted to charge about $250 to do this.  Another weekend project to add to my list  laughing7
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« Reply #14 on: September 10, 2010, 11:50:33 PM »

its worth it.  fork seal drivers are ot cheap
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« Reply #15 on: September 11, 2010, 08:30:48 AM »

Cool!
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« Reply #16 on: September 11, 2010, 02:56:38 PM »

its worth it.  fork seal drivers are ot cheap

Huh? I'm lost!
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Chris Horoho
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« Reply #17 on: September 11, 2010, 09:53:05 PM »

Huh? I'm lost!
he is referring to the damage straps cause
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